Wine Geek Speak: Three Treatments that Shape Chardonnay

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chardonnay close up 2

Chardonnay styles easily range from light and crisp unoaked varieties to full-bodied oaked versions that display toasty impressions. If these were the only variables, Chardonnay would still cover a broad spectrum of flavors and aromas; but there is more to this story.

Wines often undergo other treatments that profoundly affect flavor, and Chardonnay is no exception. Any combination of three particular treatments often determines a winemaker’s true signature and can make individual styles stand out. Understanding these easily can impact your wine knowledge and experience as you shop for your next new favorite.

The first treatment is “malolactic fermentation,” a process applied after alcoholic fermentation where bacteria converts the tart “malic” acids in the wine—similar to those found in orange juice—into soft, rounder lactic acids, such as those found in milk. All red wines go through this process but only some whites. Applied to either all or some of a given batch, the process makes the wine fuller and creamier. You might even detect a milky aroma on the nose as a result.

“Sur Lie” (pronounced “Sir Lee”) is an aging approach in which some wines, or a portion of the blend, are aged “on the lees.” Winemakers leave the dead yeast and other sediment—grape skin fragments, seeds or pulp from the fermentation vat—with the wine during aging rather than taking steps to remove them. The lees produce additional flavors in the wine, including bready complexity. In addition to Chardonnay, winemakers perform this process on some Muscadet wines from France’s Loire region, and it is part of the process for every bottle-fermented sparkling wine, such as wine from France’s Champagne region.

Finally, “battonage” or “lees barrel room 1stirring” is exactly as it sounds. As the wine ages either in an oak barrel or stainless steel tank, winemakers periodically stir the mix to increase yeast exposure and draw greater complexity from the bready mix.

While winemakers delve into even more complex creativity in the winemaking process, these three descriptors help define different Chardonnay styles and unlock the roots of their unique characteristics. Understanding just these three terms will open your eyes to more Chardonnay variety. Just tell Total Wine & More representatives which style you’d like to try and they will gladly help you find it.

Earth Day 4/22: Brewers, Vintners and Distillers Lead The Way

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Earth Day is celebrated internationally on April 22 each year. Senator Gaylord Nelson started this environmental movement in 1970 when high levels of air and water pollution were business as usual. Many laws including the Clean Air Act and Clean Water Act followed shortly after, and now, after 40 years, being green has garnered more interest than at any time since then.

The idea of being environmentally conscious and responsible has also evolved from those early days–it’s no longer just air and water. Here at Total Wine and More, we believe that brewers, vintners and distillers are the new leaders in the movement, creating environmentally sustainable products that do not pollute or strip the Earth of its resources.

Between farming techniques and the use of ingredients produced under strict sustainable standards, beer, wine and spirits companies are leading by example. Many are so passionate about the cause that they have become early developers and adopters of certain certifications and their rules, despite the additional cost and resources needed to obtain them.

Traditional farming practices use herbicides, pesticides and artificial fertilizers, where the only goal is to protect the crops and deliver the best yield. There are, however, three other strategies that are more aligned with the mission and traditions that Earth Day stands for.

Dan Sipping HB cropOrganic Farming means that no pesticides, herbicides or artificial fertilizers are used when growing the crops. In addition, vintners are not permitted to add any preservatives to their wines. Though most brewers do not grow their own ingredients, several have taken the initiative to use organically grown products. Daniel Del Grande, owner and brewer at Bison Brewing, exclusively brews organic beers. “Organic Dan” as he known in some social networks, said he does this to support organic farmers who he believes are the key to sustainability. His mission is to educate consumers and retailers about the positive environmental impact, helping create demand for those organic farmers, to the point where they ultimately convert all of their fields to organic farming. And when asked if one small brewery can make a difference, Daniel gave a resounding “yes”, offering some statistics to back up his enthusiasm.

Several spirit makers also use organic ingredients in their products. Florida’s Drum Circle Distilling uses organic sugar cane when making its Siesta Key rums. And Bainbridge Organic Distillers uses locally grown organic grains from Washington for their vodka, gin and whiskey.

Wine makers are often able to go beyond the organic certification since they often grow their own grapes. A farming practice called Biodynamic Agriculture was started in 1924 by an Austrian philosopher named Rudolf Steiner. Steiner created the method to help farmers have an ecological and sustainable approach to growing their crops. Biodynamic Agriculture embraces the practice of not using herbicides, pesticides or artificial fertilizers (and is thus also organic). However, the practice also considers the farm as one ecosystem and provides rules for how the farming must be done. Plants, animals, insects and soil are all considered as one. Farmers irrigate based on the lunar calendar. Byproducts such as grape skins and seeds taken during the harvest are composted and returned back into the vineyard. Wineries that follow these and several other guidelines can become Demeter Certified Biodynamic.

ginny_lambrixVirginia “Ginny” Lambrix, the winemaker from Truett Hurst, said their estate is currently in the process of achieving biodynamic certification. She believes that creating an ecosystem that mimics nature and keeps chemicals out of our natural resources is worth the cost and effort. “Wine is a luxury product with a relatively high rate of return on the farming investment. If there is one product that should be amenable to a more cost intensive farming method, it seems viticulture is a natural fit. Furthermore, higher quality grapes yield better wine and I do believe that vines growing in living soil and extracting their nutrients naturally from it are in fact higher quality and value.”

Sustainable Farming is another technique being used. Sustainability takes into account conservation and employee practices in addition to the farming practices. For example, energy saving solar panels may be installed on the buildings and water conservation and irrigation techniques may be developed. Although sustainable farming does still allow fertilizers, the practice encourages as few chemicals as possible and only to use them when necessary.

PaulSmile-2-rgbSHRPWe spoke with Paul Sobon, the winemaker and vineyard manager of Sobon Estate, about his winery and approach to farming. Paul said that although they had been previously certified organic, their approach should now be defined as sustainable farming. Paul said their mission is to keep what is in nature in balance and let the quality soil nurture grapes into tasty wine. His winery runs on solar power, they compost all waste materials created in the wine-making process, and recycle, among other sustainable practices. “Sustainable farming is definitely worth the money,” he said.

To get you started, here are some delicious, “Eco-Friendly” selections, just follow this link.

Happy Earth Day!

Why You Should Try Malbec

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Argentina’s Malbec grape is a “seriously thrilling star” that consumers embrace for its “damsony,” soft and juicy profile, says Oz Clarke in Grapes and Wines. Indeed, it’s big enough to enjoy with a charred steak or hearty stew, but it’s also silky and approachable enough to appreciate on its own or with lighter fare.

Once a major component of great Bordeaux blends, Malbec now thrives on a far-off continent thanks to a series of both unfortunate and serendipitous events. In the mid-19th century, Malbec vines found their way to vineyards in Mendoza, Argentina, not too long before phylloxera—a root-eating aphid that attacks grape vines—arrived in Europe on imported American vines in the late 1800s. The unadapted European grape vines—Malbec included—began to die out around France until farmers grafted them to phylloxera-resistant American rootstock.andes_malbec

Argentine winemaker Laura Catena of Bodgas Catena Zapata explains in her book, Vino Argentino, that Malbec performed poorly on American rootstock because it produced overly vigorous plants whose fruit did not ripen well. Thanks to the isolated nature of Andes Mountain vineyards, phylloxera never developed in Argentina, allowing Malbec there to thrive on its own roots. Today, these high-altitude vineyards, with their relatively cool but exceedingly sunny weather, provide the ideal environment for producing opulent Malbec wines that possess soft, ripe tannins with plum and black fruit profiles suitable for either oak or stainless steel aging.

While Bordelaise winemakers mostly abandoned the grape, other French winemakers southeast of Bordeaux in Cahors mastered the art of growing grafted Malbec. Today, their wines offer drinkers a more rustic style with chalky tannins that Cahors winemakers note typically exhibit “violet, black currant, cherry, licorice, vanilla, menthol and truffle.” In addition, Malbec grows in France’s Loire Valley, where winemakers, who call it “Cot,” blend it with other grape varieties.

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Consumers will find many value-priced and premium Malbec wines within the large Total Wine & More selection. The more affordable versions are perfect for everyday sipping and enjoyment with simple meals such as pizza, pasta and burgers, whereas the premium, often oak-aged versions offer a superb match with hearty beef, lamb, stews and other rich dishes. Check out Laura Catena’s food pairing advice on her Web site MalbecLife.com as well as food pairing suggestions at CahorsMalbec.com.

Deciphering a German Wine Label

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So, would you like a Trockenbeerenauslese or a Beerenauslese? 

Whichever you choose—even if you know what these words mean—these terms illustrate how daunting a German wine label can be. But rather than running for the hills, keep this post handy as a quick reference to help you make informed purchases and discover Germany’s many great wines.

A number of things on the label are easily recognizable: the grape, the vintage, the percent of alcohol and the region.

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Some popular German white grapes include: Riesling, Müller-Thurgau and Gewürztraminer. Reds include Spätburgunder (the same as Pinot Noir), Dornfelder and Lemberger (the same as the Austrian Blaufränkisch). Visit The Wines of Germany for a more complete list.

Some of the most notable German wine regions are Mosel, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Nahe, Rheinhessen, Pfalz, Baden and Württemberg.

In addition, German wine labels identify the ripeness levels of the grapes, which roughly indicates the level of sweetness. Look for these terms:

  • Kabinett  [Kahb-in-ET] generally describes the driest wines, but some may stillhave a hint of sugar—what we call “off-dry.” The label might also include the words “trocken” (dry) or “halbtrocken” (off-dry).
  • Spätlese, [SHPAYT-lay-zuh] meaning “late harvest,” refers to wines that have more body and complexity than Kabinett and usually are sweeter.
  • heidemanns_bernkastler_auslese_croppedAuslese, [OWS-lay-zuh] which translates as “selected harvest,” describes wines produced with individually selected grapes and bunches. These are usually sweeter than the prior category, very sweet or, less frequently, dry.
  • Beerenauslese (BA), [Buh-air-en OWS-lay-zuh] which translates as “selected harvest berries,” applies to wines derived from individually selected grapes often affected by “noble rot” or Botrytis, a fungus that shrivels them on the vine. These are very rich, sweet and generally expensive.
  • Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA), [TROH-ken-buh-air-en OWS-lay-zuh] which translates as “selected harvest dried berries” describes the sweetest and richest of them all. These rare dessert wines are made from individually picked Botrytis-affected grapes and are incredibly rich and complex. Winemakers only produce them in select vintages.

German labels also include quality categories, which range from the most basic to the highest ranking:

  • heidemanns_qba copyTafelwein, [TOFF-el-vine] or “table wine,” describes the most basic wines.
  • Landwein, [LANDT-vine] or “country wine,” is generally better quality than table wine but usually still value priced.
  • Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete (QbA), [Kvahl-it-AYTS-vine buh-SHTIMT-er AHN-bow-guh-beet-uh] or “wines from a designated” region, are produced in specific areas or villages, which are usually listed on the label.
  • Qualitätswein mit Prädikatswein (QmP)/Prädikatswein, [Kvahl-it-AYTS-vine mitt pray-dee-KAHT] or ”quality wine with distinction,” also come from specific regions and represent the best quality designation.

Once you identify these elements, look for the producer name and possibly the name of the village.

These basics are enough to prepare you to shop. But if you want to learn more German wine terms, check out the Wines of Germany website.

Interview With Rum Expert Robert Burr: Part 2

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This is a continuation of our interview with Rum Expert Robert Burr. Part 1 can be read here.

What types of events are part of the Rum Renaissance festival? With so many different options at the Grand Tasting finale, how would you recommend approaching so many rums? It can’t be possible to try them all, right?

As always, we have several hundred rums on display. There’s also lifestyle products, artists, apparel, travel, gourmet products, etc. No, you can’t try them all, but surprisingly, if you sample a very small amount of a rum, you’ll know right away if you like it. You could sample 50-60 small tastings in a day without getting tipsy. Of course, we’re drinking water and enjoying a good bite or two along the way.

When you arrive at the festival, first listen and learn. The exhibitors are extremely knowledgeable about their products, methods, styles and objectives. Look for rums that suit your purpose. Which will be your favorite great sipping rum? Which are perfect for making cocktails or punch with friends at your next get-together? Which are the full-flavored rums that you love to share with friends? What defines the styles of rum from Puerto Rico, Dominican Republic, Barbados, Venezuela, Jamaica, Guatemala? This is the best place to learn, discern, savor and demystify rum.

rum_ren_pt2Would attending the Rum Renaissance be good for a beginner rum drinker? Are there seminars that show students key things to look for in a quality rum? If someone couldn’t make it, do you have a few approachable rums that you could recommend for rookies?

It’s the perfect place for beginners to start. Some of the seminars, such at Martin Cate’s “Tiki 101″ will teach you all about delicious, tropical tiki drinks; how they were invented; how to make them for friends. This is fun. A beginner can’t find a better place to get a basic education. At every turn, experienced rum professionals are ready, willing and able to help you learn. Your friends will discover something amazing and insist you go right over there and try it. There is excitement and opportunity to learn. A beginner will leave the show with a new-found understanding of rum styles, categories, territories and blends.

If you can’t make it to the festival, start with authentic rums of Barbados like Doorly’s XO, R.L. Seale and Cockspur. If you prefer this dry style, also try the Brugal 1888 from DR, the great Jamaican estate rums from Appleton Reserve and Extra, or Flor de Caña’s great 7 year old, or their 18 year old sipper. For the sweeter palate, reach for Zacapa from Guatemala, Diplomatico from Venezuela, Atlantico from DR, Zaya from Trinidad or the new Papa’s Pilar from Hemingway Rum Company.

Rum is not expensive, especially compared to Scotch, Bourbon, Cognac or Tequila. You can afford to experiment, to be adventurous, to discover for yourself which styles and expressions are best suited to your palate.

Are there any special surprises happening or guests appearing at this year’s festival that you can tell us about? A teaser?

There are always new products to discover. Big companies will reveal exciting new products. Small American companies will bring their rums to the show for the first time. Some rums that we love from the islands will finally make it to Miami. A host of rum’s finest presenters, lecturers and ambassadors will be sharing their knowledge and passion for rum. The VIP area offers a place to relax, enjoy hand-made premium cocktails and complimentary food.

Mojito cocktailAs a world traveler, what are some of the most exotic destinations you’ve visited to drink rum? Are there distilleries buried in a jungle somewhere? Were there any unbelievable experiences during those visits you could share?

So many stories … so little time. From the far reaches of Guyana, Nicaragua, Venezuela, Jamaica, Guatemala, Panama or Peru to the well traveled paths of Barbados, Trinidad, St. Barth, Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic, St. Vincent, Martinique, St. Lucia or central Florida, each visit to a distillery or aging facility is a world-class experience. Some require helicopters to reach over rugged, often dangerous terrain. Some are quite secretive, rarely allowing a visit to see the operation in progress. Some are ready for tourists, with marvelous displays, museums and tours of their operations.

A little distillery in Grenada still uses a very large stream-fed water wheel to crush their cane, lighting a wooden fire under their pot still to evaporate the alcohol, then hand-filling each and every bottle. This is how they did it back in 1785 and nothing has really changed. Another traditional pot still facility in Jamaica produces rich and flavorful authentic style rums, as they have for centuries, now commanded and automated by a customized state-of-the-art touch-pad controller. The variations seem almost endless.

Finally, what are a few interesting rum facts that your everyday person probably doesn’t know?

Most people associate rum brands with distilleries. In many cases, a rum brand owns and controls their own distillery, such as Bacardi, Appleton, DonQ or Flor de Caña. But many brands and distilleries are separately owned and operated. For example, in Barbados, Mount Gay Rum is owned by Remy Cointreau, a large corporation based in Europe. Their rum is — and always has been — created by a small distillery in Barbados owned by the Ward family. Malibu coconut rum is a world-famous brand produced by West Indies Distillery in Barbados. Atlantico Rum is created by Oliver and Oliver in the Dominican Republic. Captain Morgan spiced rum was recently made by the distillers of DonQ in Puerto Rico, and now it’s made by Diageo in St. Croix. Zaya aged rum was once made in Guatemala, now by Angostura in Trinidad. Increasingly, new rum brands use spirits created for them by independent distilleries, aging facilities and blenders to their specifications.

Total Wine & More Talks Vodka with Dan Aykroyd!

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Dan Aykroyd has worn many hats during his long and successful career – he’s an Oscar-nominated and Emmy award-winning actor, a writer, director, philanthropist, enthusiast of the supernatural, winery owner, tequila importer and now, vodka maven.

Dan’s partner and veteran fine artist John Alexander has exhibited extensively in the United States and around the world. Together, they were avid researchers of the legend of the 13 crystal heads. And from this inspiration, an idea was born – Crystal Head vodka.

We interviewed Dan Aykroyd about the founding of Crystal Head, details behind its production and his interests in “spirits” beyond vodka. (Part one of two)

 

How did you and John Alexander first meet?

I met John back in my SNL days. Simply put – he stole my girlfriend. I was off doing a movie and when I returned to SNL my girlfriend at the time was dating John. But John was such a great guy we couldn’t help but to develop a friendship.  30 years later we are still great friends. As for the girlfriend, we aren’t too sure where she is nowadays.

It must have been quite a challenge to find a manufacturer that could handle the specifications of John’s skull sculpture – how long did it take to find a company that could create his design?

It took about 2 years to develop a mold for this bottle. We spanned the globe and no one would even try to do it. You have to understand no bottle company had ever done anything like this before so some of them didn’t even know where to start. As it turned out Bruni Glass was up for the challenge and after about 18 months or so and several attempts Bruni got it right.

Of course, the eye-catching skull bottle drives a lot of sales, but a huge part of Crystal Head’s popularity is driven by what’s in the bottle – incredibly pure vodka. How did you achieve this amazing purity? 

The purity aspect was not easy. Because vodka is colorless and odorless people assume it must be pure. But in many cases it is far from it. Chemicals and oils are used to “smooth out” the product. As you can imagine I too was shocked to learn this.  I was like everyone else. I believed vodka must be pure. When I found out that it wasn’t, it seemed natural to produce completely pure and clean vodka for people to enjoy. We did a lot of taste testing. The challenge for us was to produce a pure product yet still have incredible smoothness and mouth-feel and to have minimal burn on the throat.

After a while of testing, it became apparent that the only way to make sure a product was to use very high quality water, and grains in our ingredient. The second thing we then did was distill it 4 times to remove any natural impurities that may appear from the distilling process and then we filtered it a total of 7 times. Many people think the number of times you distill the vodka is the most important thing. While it is important, filtration is also very important and of course the quality of your water.

I had never heard of Herkimer diamonds before I was introduced to Crystal Head. What special properties do they contribute to the vodka? 

Herkimer Diamond is named for a Revolutionary War general and the stones come from a geophysically anomalous region of upstate New York.  An area 50 miles by 50 miles has semi-precious crystals migrating from below the earth’s surface to fields and roadsides. We selected a basket of the finest stones available from a major harvester. These stones compose the contents of our final filter cone. The vodka after being poured through takes on a distinct platinum hue and resembles liquid satin as it goes into the bottle. It is our last touch to both ensure Crystal Head is the world’s cleanest and also it ties the bow, if you will, on our legend – that the Heads were given to man under mysterious circumstances for the purposes of enlightenment.

Your family has had a long fascination with the paranormal — your father Peter even wrote a book about ghosts. What are your current “spiritual interests” or projects that aren’t vodka?

Of course, I am always interested in any developments occurring in psychic research. My fathers’ book history outlines the depth of our family interests in these matters. Other than vodka my time is now focused on House of Blues where I serve as a founding consultant. We have a new initiative at all the clubs currently to re-connect with our respective communities. New Orleans and Chicago are the stars of this new policy.

Check out part two of the interview here.

Dan Aykroyd will visit Total Wine & More at our Norwalk, Connecticut location from 1:00 – 3:00 p.m. on Saturday, April 6th to autograph bottles of Crystal Head vodka.

Total Wine & More Norwalk
380 Main Ave.
Norwalk, Connecticut 06851
Questions? Call: 1-855-330-6673

Interview With Rum Expert Robert Burr: Part 1

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Rob BurrTotal Wine & More recently asked Rum Expert Robert A. Burr to answer a few questions for us. Robert is the founder of the Miami Rum Renaissance Festival, and along with his wife and son, hosts this annual “celebration of cane spirits in the new world” each April. In addition to the festival, Robert has authored Rob’s Rum Guide, which offers tasting notes on hundreds of different rums. Robert is also the National Rum Examiner, a position that allows him to be an ambassador and promote all things rum to his readers. Be sure to say hello to Robert at the festival this year!

Thanks a lot for taking the time to answer our questions today, Robert.

First, what is your background? How did you become such a well-known figure in the rum world, running a hugely successful festival and writing a national column among other achievements? Did it start as a hobby? Do you work in the spirits industry?

I’ve been a rum enthusiast since my early years. The drinking age was 18 when I grew up in Miami. I discovered Barbancourt Rhum from Haiti in 1976. It was like no other rum I’d ever tasted. It made me curious to discover the various styles of rum. In 1986, I began publishing Fisheye View scuba magazine, traveling to nearly every island or country in the world where I could go beneath the waves to photograph brightly colored corals, fish and invertebrate species. It seems every island I visited shared one fact — they each made the best rum in the world! I was pleased to further discover the wide range of styles that had evolved with each territory.

In 2006, I predicted that rum was ready for a new era of enlightenment, a period of greater appreciation and better understanding, featuring higher quality premium products and more brands being imported to our shores. As it turns out, my timing was right. We’re now in an expanding era of great new rums coming to market and classic, authentic Caribbean spirits being imported here in greater numbers. At the same time, we envisioned a bigger and better rum festival, located in Miami.

No, I don’t work in the spirits industry, but I talk about it a lot.

Rum RenaissanceYou are a highly respected rum judge as well. What are some of the most prestigious events that you’ve been asked to be on the judging panel? What skills are required to be a successful rum judge?

If you have a good palate, a fine sense for identifying flavors and scents, an ability to describe what you’re experiencing, the basis for sense memory from visiting and learning many aspects of rum production and development, you might make a fine rum judge.

We’ve been asked to judge rums at many events, from Tampa and San Francisco to New York, Berlin, Prague, London, Madrid, Rome and Paris, just to name a few. Along the way, we’ve become good friends with a number of the best rum judges from many countries. In 2009, we began organizing ourselves into the International Rum Expert Panel. We each gain a lot by sharing our experiences and working together to better define the means of judging, scoring, discerning qualities of fine rums. We often travel together to visit our favorite distilleries, obscure locations, large operations and very small concerns. We’re always learning more, gathering information and identifying the means by which various styles of rum are created.

The Miami Rum Renaissance has been growing rapidly in each of its first four years. We noticed that you again moved to a new location this year, the Doubletree Hilton Miami Airport Convention Center. Is that because you needed more space, a common trend for your festival? What is fueling the enthusiasm for rum here in Miami and is that a trend everywhere else as well?

In 2008, we began with 150 friends enjoying 50 different rums at a beautiful poolside setting in Coral Gables. This encouraged us to launch the festival in 2009. We attracted about 1,000 rum enthusiasts at the Shore Club on Miami Beach. The following year at the Raleigh Resort we gathered 1,900. Moving to a larger venue each year we reached 4,000, then 8,000 attendees. This year, we’ve doubled the size of our exhibit space again — now 40,000 square feet — to accommodate upwards of 15,000 rum fanatics, professionals and beginners.

Yes, we’ve outgrown every exhibit venue due to local costumers’ ever-expanding enthusiasm for rum brands and expressions. Rum is so subjective. There are so many styles. Everyone finds something they love. Then, their own enthusiasm spreads to their friends. Rum is delicious. Rum is fun. Rum is a sailboat, a palm tree, a beautiful beach. The delight of discovering new rums is infectious. We share our love with friends and it spreads.

It’s not just in Miami — rum is thriving in many markets around the world. But Miami is the center of the rum universe, the unofficial capital of the Caribbean. Across this region — across the entire western hemisphere — almost everyone has a cousin in Miami. So, this is where the world’s biggest and best rum festival must be located.

Part two of our interview with Robert Burr will be posted tomorrow, stay tuned!

A Holistic View of Craft Beer Retailing: Final of a Three Part Series

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Check out Part 1 and Part 2, of this 3-part series, which discuss:
Part 1: Beer Singles-By-Style, Consumers Pilot Test, Beer Singles = Experimentation, and Fizzy Yellow Beer
Part 2
: Too Many Choices, Women Beer Shoppers, “Wine-ifying” Beer, the Restaurant/Bar and Retail Store Experience, and Beer Education.

GETTING BEER STYLES RIGHT

Brewers Assoc & BeerAdvocate Beer Style GuidesWhile not an exact science, and with room for variances based on brewer interpretation, defined beer styles do provide general color, aroma, flavor, and strength parameters within which beers may be purposefully brewed or in which they may fall, even without specific brewer intent, as a basis for characterizing the beer. Total Wine & More follows the Brewers Association Beer Style Guidelines as our standard regarding style definitions and vernacular, and we reference the beer style list on the popular BeerAdvocate.com consumer website, in an effort to ensure that our beer style nomenclature is not only accurate in accordance with a respected industry source (BA), but also in accordance with this popular consumer website which many beer enthusiasts reference in their early and ongoing learning process.

Some styles may seem a bit confusing based on the name on the bottle label, such as “Black IPA”, “Cascadian Dark Ale”, “American Black Ale”. Which is it, or are these three different styles? We know from the Brewers Association Style Guidelines that neither “Black IPA” nor “Cascadian Dark Ale”, by virtue of their omission, is a recognized style name or an IPA at all. These beers arguably do not belong in the IPA style category.

Beer Geek KnowledgeIn our classes and in Total Guide to Beer we teach customers the origin of this style and these various names, and we teach the Brewers Association official style name; American-style Black Ale. Where, then, should it be categorized within a style arrangement? Since the beer is not an IPA and is not part of any other larger style grouping, yet it is usually always strong in ABV (6% +), we have it in the Strong Ale & Barley Wine category.

It is true that if a person were to select a beer of this style from within the IPA grouping, she or he could get the wrong impression as to what IPAs are all about. We believe the same holds true for “Belgian IPA” with its unique aroma and flavor character from the Belgian yeast strain used, making it more suitable in our view to be in our American Belgian-Styles grouping.

There is obviously more than one “right way” to categorize some beers, and we’ve certainly heard from beer geeks looking for “Black IPA” in the IPA section, for example. While by no means perfect, we believe that our beer singles-by-style set is both meaningful and educational for the majority of consumers. As brewers continue to innovate, our beer set will continue to evolve.

THE NOVICES and THE SAVVY (GEEKS)

Questions signpost in the skyWhen launching our beer style arrangement pilot test in 2008 we suspected that some beer geeks may not like it. We “moved their cheese”. It’s new. It won’t initially make sense from “the way it has always been.”

But we also knew a few other important things:

- Make no mistake; we LOVE our beer savvy/geek customers. And we know the geeks are knowledgeable enough about beer to find their way around any beer set for the beers they seek. Novices don’t have that ready-knowledge.
- The reality is the geeks are far outnumbered by the non-geeks, and non-geeks buy a lot of beer, and will buy more if we can help them to navigate the wall of beer and discover flavors (styles) they like.
- In time, many of the geeks will come to actually like the set, perhaps even prefer it, or at least get to know it enough to know how to navigate to their list of beers. Yet, some will eternally dislike it. Regrettably, this will be part of the percentage of customers we won’t please with the way our store is set.
- 80/20 Rule: Where the prior alpha-by-brand set was great for the geeks (let’s say that is 20% of our customers, but the number is really lower than that), and this set was bad or unhelpful or indifferent to everyone else (the novices; the other 80% of our customers), and the style arrangement is more helpful to 80% of our customers, then the style arrangement is the right thing to do.

The pilot findings seemed to bear this out.

WIN-WIN-WIN-WIN

winwin2To be sure, consumers aren’t the only winners from this merchandising formula. All four tiers of the value chain, from brewers to distributors through to customers, are winning with this approach.

Brewers get maximum brand exposure through our buying program; we essentially carry EVERY BREWERY BRAND we can get a hold of in the markets we serve and EVERY year-round, seasonal and special-release beer item carried in distribution of those brands in the market.  Our 6-packs, case stacks, end caps, cold box doors, and other merchandising displays are driven by brand-adjacent displays, while the singles style arrangement helps consumers discover or rediscover American craft brands.

Distributors enjoy large buys and fast product sales from our stores. We work with both breweries and distributors to ensure ongoing brand displays and promotions.

In doing the above everyone wins and then Total Wine & More wins, and then this winning cycle repeats.

FINALLY

Brewery District imageWhen customers step into a specialty store such as Total Wine & More we hope that they are seeking a different beer/wine/spirits experience from that of a grocery store or warehouse club or convenience store. Customers should expect to not only be able to find packs and cases of their known favorites, but also a huge selection of additional choices that often cannot be found elsewhere, all at great low prices.

Customers should expect that, as purveyors of these fine products, Total Wine & More has knowledge and expertise about them and about the many different genres they come in. The ability to categorize accurately by style the many thousands of beers in our portfolio across markets across the chain, and write for each one an informative description that is visible on a shelf talker and via our website, is certainly more than any grocery or warehouse or convenience store is able to do or takes the time to do. Indeed, we would hope this communicates our expertise in craft beer to savvier consumers and beginner consumers alike.

Cheers to beer!

rob_hill_photoRob Hill, Certified Cicerone®
Author of Total Guide to Beer
New Programs Manager, Customer Experience
Total Wine & More
Twitter: @TWMBeer

A Holistic View of Craft Beer Retailing: Part Two of a Three Part Series

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Check out Part 1, of this 3-part series, which discusses Beer Singles-By-Style, Consumers, Pilot Test, Beer Singles = Experimentation, and Fizzy Yellow Beer.

OrangeJuice_choicesTOO MANY CHOICES

Scientific studies show that when consumers are presented with too many choices, they often end up making poor choices or no choice at all, or they simply default to an old familiar choice. No experimentation or discovery takes place, even among the wide array of choices. That’s such a shame!

Brewer innovation is breeding lots of choices, but is that ultimately bad for craft beer if there are too many choices for customers?  An article discussing this subject and citing such studies appeared in The New Brewer magazine (a BA publication).

An innovative beer retailer doesn’t say, “Stop. No more Beer!” It is incumbent upon the retailer who offers consumers a lot of choices to help break down and categorize the products into meaningful groups. This provides customers approachable starting points and an opportunity to focus on smaller bites of the pie, within which decisions can be made.

A beer style group arrangement, done strategically in an environment conducive to it such as Total Wine, is an effective way to achieve this, as there are plentiful yet manageable choices within meaningful style groupings.

WOMEN BEER SHOPPERS

Women drinking craft beerConsumer studies also find that women make or influence ~80% of all purchases in the United States. Do women buy beer? YES, more than is generally realized, and Total Wine is paying attention to this. Unlike most men who shop for beer primarily only for themselves (admit it, guys!), women buy beer for others: their friends, boyfriend, husband, brothers, father, as gifts, for parties/social events, and yes, quite often for themselves. Most women prefer meaningful organization of items when they shop. Women know how to shop and they like organization. That is not sexist. It is simple fact. (A clearance bin mish-mash with killer-low prices may be an acceptable exception).

Total Wine store Team Members have many interactions assisting women shoppers who are buying beer for someone else. As with many male shoppers, the extent of knowledge for some of these women shoppers is that the person “likes IPAs” (they may not even know what IPA means. Kudos to them for admitting it and seeking help … men generally do not do that). When shown the style set and it is explained to them, “All of the IPAs are together on these 5 shelves,” often, their eyes light up as if they’ve been given the key to shopping success; they become comfortable and go about reading the shelf talkers, looking at labels, and selecting different bottles. They love it and feel confident and proud about being able to shop, make their selections and make the purchase.  Often times, women come in for one custom 6-pack, and they end up buying two! It has been our experience that women, by and large, really enjoy and appreciate the beer singles set in style groupings.

“WINE-IFYING” BEER

Roughly 35 years ago wine awareness and sales began to grow in the United States concurrent with word being spread that wine is a great accompaniment to food. There were wine dinners. Restaurants began expanding wine lists. There was a movement to educate Americans on wine, to teach that there is more than just “red”, “white”, and “blush” and that there existed more than just “macro” jug wine. Americans were being introduced to discovering different wine varietals, and they grew to know which one(s) they liked. People began feeling more empowered with wine knowledge, and wine – higher quality wine — started selling big. Through it, customers discovered wines from certain brands they liked, returning to buy more.

Rhetorical question: Was that bad for the wine industry?

Beer Dinner Beer vs. Wine Menu“Wine-ifying beer” has been used in a vilifying tone, yet in its most basic and positive form it means trying to educate more people on Craft beer. Who started it and who’s doing it? Answer: smart Craft breweries. How? For one thing, they’ve taken a page from the wine industry and sponsored and hosted beer dinners, during which they espouse beer having a place on the dinner table with or instead of wine. This means beer and food pairings, but not any beer; craft beer, like wine but unlike macro beer, is about different FLAVORS.

We’ve learned beers of certain styles tend to go well with certain foods/dishes. For beer dinners brewers select from their portfolio specific beers of specific styles or flavor characteristics to go with the various courses of the meal. AND, to ensure beer shows well vs. wine in the pairing, brewers feature select “guest beers” from friend-competitor craft breweries in order to get the style needed to make the ideal pairing (perhaps they don’t brew it, or don’t have the right match). They feature competitor craft beers?! “Rising tide lifts all ships.” Yet the cream rises to the top.

Additional nods to wine by craft beer can even be found on beer labels with words such as “harvest”, “estate”, “Grand Cru”, “vintage”, clever iterations of “terroir” and “chateau”, and others that are clearly co-opted from wine lexicon.  Sommelier would have likely been co-opted for beer service expertise had Cicerone® not been introduced.

THE RESTAURANT/BAR and RETAIL STORE EXPERIENCE

Pizzeria Paradiso menu, Washington, D.C.

Pizzeria Paradiso menu, Washington, D.C.

The top beer establishments near Total Wine’s home office in metro Washington, D.C. have great food and world class beer lists. These expansive lists, with up to 500 bottles plus draughts and casks, present the beers by beer style groupings, not by brand. Progressive Beer Directors list beers this way for multiple reasons, including:

1. Customers need a way to break down the expansive list into meaningful, approachable segments. An alpha list by brewery isn’t effective since most customers are relatively new to craft beer. The list may thrill the geeky-ist of beer geeks, but it must be useable by the other 80%-90% of customers who aren’t so beer savvy.

2. Customers can find a style/flavor range and self-select a flight of beers, or choose beers from multiple styles for a flight.

3. Good craft beer pairs well with food, but for specific foods it isn’t just any beer (we learned this from brewery-sponsored beer dinners).

4. It provides service personnel a starting point to assist customers: “What flavors do you like?” “What are you eating?” Servers can then make recommendations referencing the style groupings, helping customers narrow down the selections. The huge list of beers becomes scalable for customers, who can be a part of the process by choosing themselves and not having to rely on the server to choose.

Allowing customers to focus on general flavor profiles adds an educational component to it as well. It’s about what’s desirable to the palate based on the occasion and/or what’s being ordered to eat.

An approach that is appropriate for on-premise retailers with extensive beer portfolios selling beer by bottle and draught is also appropriate for off-premise specialty retailers with extensive beer portfolios selling beer by the bottle. The customer’s advantage at Total Wine is we offer beer to them both ways — by brand and by style; with our 6-packs by brand and singles by style offering a cross reference library of beer.

BEER EDUCATION

women_and_beerConsumer beer knowledge is key to craft beer growth, and we believe breweries, distributors and retailers all have a stake in educating consumers on beer. Beer education is a serious endeavor at Total Wine & More; we offer beer education and tasting classes in our 50+ stores that have classrooms, and we wrote and published a comprehensive 200 page educational beer book, called Total Guide to Beer, that’s available for FREE in our stores (and digitally for free via iTunes at
http://bit.ly/iTunesTotalGuideToBeer
).

Total Guide to Beer 2013 EditionThis book is full of informative beer style information and lots more including beer history, ingredients, brewing process, food pairings, glassware, tasting process, serving temperature recommendations, and more. With 800,000 copies in print and over 10,000 downloads, this was a large $$Dollar investment by Total Wine for consumer beer education. We did it because we know that customers who know more about beer will be more likely to try craft beer.

Teaching consumers about beer styles is important and the book groups the 90+ individual beer styles described into the meaningful style categories customers find in our craft beer singles arrangement in our stores: Lagers, Wheat Ale, Blonde & Golden Ale, Pale Ale & IPA, Amber/Red Ale, Strong Ale & Barley Wine, Brown Ale, Porter, Stout, American Belgian-styles, and Specialty/Hybrid/other.

Craft brewer innovation is complemented by beer style and flavor groupings on store shelves and restaurant beer lists. In fact they can lead customers to more quickly discover the breadth of style interpretation and innovation across breweries. A parallel can be drawn to the annual Great American Beer Festival and World Beer Cup awards, where beers are judged within style, and as brewers create new beers, new styles are identified and the beers are judged within them. Brands compete in these professionally judged contests and in our stores on the merits of their liquid beer, and the cash-holding consumer is always the ultimate judge.

Check out Part 3 of this 3-part series which discusses Getting Beer Styles Right, The Novices and the Savvy (Geeks), Win-Win-Win-Win, and Finally.

rob_hill_photoRob Hill, Certified Cicerone®
Author of Total Guide to Beer
New Programs Manager, Customer Experience
Total Wine & More
Twitter: @TWMBeer

A Holistic View of Craft Beer Retailing: Part One of a Three Part Series

As a specialty retailer with large stores, Total Wine & More provides consumers of beer, wine and spirits* a shopping experience that is unique from grocery, wholesale club, and convenience stores. This has been our owners’ goal since they started in the beverage industry in the 1980s operating a large beer store. With beer retailing beginnings and their 1991 launch of Total Wine Ɨ, we can truly say that we’ve been selling craft beer since before craft beer was even called craft beer.

Beer Color SpectrumBeers from today’s elder statesmen craft brands that started during the ‘80s, such as Sierra Nevada and Samuel Adams, were sold from our shelves when they were upstart operations. Wow, were these brands unique from the beer mainstream back then! And today’s hot craft brands that launched during the ‘90s, such as Dogfish Head, have been on our shelves since day-1 of their bottle distribution. Craft beer has been in our stores through all of the category’s ups and downs, and as we’ve grown we’ve brought our ever-expanding craft beer aisles with us to each store and state.

CONSUMERS

We’ve learned a lot about beer over the decades, along the way making craft beer accessible to a wide spectrum of consumers; from novice beginners to geeky enthusiasts. We’ve learned a lot from customers, including not only their desire for us to provide great prices on the largest beer selection we can muster, but also to introduce beer displays that help make exploring, discovering and learning about the vast world of beer a more approachable proposition.

Overhead - Craft_Beers_GreenTotal Wine has always sold craft beer in single bottles of all sizes, along with packs and cases. Our American craft single bottles are now arranged on the shelves in beer style groupings, in addition to:

– American craft 4-/6-packs arranged alphabetically by brewery brand
– Import 4-/6-packs alphabetically by brewery brand within country of origin
– Import single bottles set alphabetically by brewery brand within country or world region of origin

Our expansive store set of 4-/6-pack and single beers in of itself makes for a different beer shopping experience than most anywhere else, offering customers different ways to shop beer.

We carry a LOT of products, for sure, and there’s no one specific way to merchandise wine, beer or spirits that will please ALL consumers. It’s not possible to do it the way everyone thinks about these categories. Yet, there are display approaches which can result in a more fruitful, and even educational, shopping experience for a greater majority of customers.

PILOT TEST

Our craft singles style groupings first proved successful with consumers during our pilot test in 2008. Success was based on the interesting and pleasing overall consumer reaction we experienced after the re-set. We found:

  1. Our sales of single bottles increased across the three test stores, ranging from 15% to 29% consistently through the year-long test. (That’s huge).
  2. Customers were buying MORE single beers than with the old alpha-by-brand set. They were not only buying deeper (taking home MORE of some of the already-popular beers), but they were also buying wider (selecting MORE individual beers, some of which hadn’t seen this level of movement).

This meant our customers were more engaged with the bottle offerings; they were discovering more beers that they apparently weren’t seeing or perhaps were ignoring with the old alpha-by-brand set. The style group set opened their eyes to new and more bottle offerings; and some customers were experimenting more by trying some of those previously undiscovered, new-to-them brands.

Craft Beer By Style Singles AisleBEER SINGLES = EXPERIMENTATION. Beer packs = grab your favorite(s).

In our beer singles aisle customers are, and we encourage them to be, in experimentation mode. We want them to build a custom 6-pack of different beers of their choosing. And we want them to come back another day and do that again, staying engaged in the world of craft beer, discovering styles and brands. Alternately, the craft 6-pack aisle is convenient for all customers who have a favorite beer/s in mind and are shopping for packs of that/those brand(s).  6-packs are displayed alphabetically-by-brand for this purpose.

Total Wine’s store size, vast selection and low pricing collectively offer an environment conducive for customers to spend more time in experimentation mode making beer discoveries. It is a different mindset for most customers while in our stores vs. grocery, club and convenience stores. That’s part of the Total Wine experience.

A recent Brewers Association (BA) blog piece referencing a study published by Consumer Edge Insight  states:

“Offering a larger selection of beer also encourages more brand experimentation and re-connecting with brands used in the past, with 36% of consumers saying they are more likely to choose a brand they haven’t tried before and 19% saying they are more likely to order a brand they have not drunk in a long time.”

This study of on-premise beer retail seems to corroborate our ’08 pilot findings. We’ve always offered a large selection of beer, however we found that our new beer style grouping of single beers was contributing even more toward encouraging consumers to choose a brand they hadn’t tried before and/or go back to a brand they had not purchased in a while. Some were discovering new beers (styles) from brands they used to drink.

Fizzy Yellow BeerFIZZY YELLOW BEER

Another recent BA article nails the essence of craft beer where it states, “The beauty of American craft beer is the innovation.” Total Wine & More’s craft beer selection echoes the oft-heard craft beer mantra, “No more fizzy yellow beer!”  While we do also sell big macro beers, we’d love it if all customers would forego their same old fizzy yellow beer and give craft beer a try. It’s another reason we’ve explored alternatives from the same old fizzy yellow way of beer merchandising.

Innovation is also needed at the beer distributor and retail store levels. Brewers and distributors are asking retailers for more shelf space, and we’re giving a LOT more space to craft beer, EXPANDING our craft beer portfolio weekly! With finite space, and offering customers more choices, we must innovate.

Stacks of New Budweiser CansIt is interesting to reflect: Bud/Miller/Coors have long had their industry “beer wars” where winning is by having the most store shelf space for their branded wall of beer. Many believe their primary focus toward consumers has seemingly been on slick packaging, rather than the contents of the packaging. The approach: win consumer hearts and minds (or sophomoric sensibilities) to their brand via TV commercials. For example, it’s probable that all a “loyal” Bud drinker will do in a store is walk right past the Miller and Coors to get to the wall of Bud. Then, once standing before that wall of Bud, all one can see is Bud, and all one is ever going to buy is — Bud.  With only these three major macro beer brands and minor variations in the package contents, this merchandising approach works. You see that brand wall in the store and there’s nothing new in front of your eyes from another brand or style saying, “Check me out. Give me a try.” “I have flavor.” Your world of beer is pretty fizzy and yellow; just the way it’s intended!

Is this to YOUR benefit as a consumer?
Isn’t this what craft brewers have been fighting against?

From our 30 years in the craft beer business we know this is not what craft is about. It’s about breaking out of that mold and EXPERIMENTING and DISCOVERING. It seems craft brewers agree (we’ve heard them say publicly) the craft beer world would be boring if it were only their brand available. They say they want customers to try craft beer even if it isn’t theirs at first, for they are confident that eventually customers will also try theirs.

At Total Wine & More we’ve set our stores up to help customers do exactly this.

Our display helps to direct the consumer’s focus to the CONTENTS of the bottles and cans where the true differences exist between craft and macro. Attractive, creative packaging is certainly important as is the brewery story, but where packaging and story may get consumers to try the beer once, it is the liquid inside that either will or will not get them to keep that brand in mind (in a positive way) and come back to it.

We know this about our beer customers: whether they are beginners or experienced enthusiasts, they can quickly “sniff out” (taste) the quality beers from those that are, well, not so quality. Through all of their experimentation, beer consumers will come back to and land on those craft brands that stand out to them. Brand affinity is built, and they’ll buy 4- & 6-packs of those brands.

The savvy craft brewers know this: 1. brew great beer and, 2. customers will find them, and 3. they’ll come back and they’ll stay, even while they’re experimenting! “A rising tide lifts all ships.”

Check out Part Two of this 3-part series, which discusses Too Many Choices, Women Beer Shoppers, “Wine-ifying” Beer, the Restaurant/Bar and Retail Store Experience, and Beer Education.

rob_hill_photoRob Hill, Certified Cicerone®
Author of Total Guide to Beer
New Programs Manager, Customer Experience
Total Wine & More
Twitter: @TWMBeer

*spirits where allowed by law
Ɨ Today Total Wine & More is the largest privately held, independent retailer of wine, beer and spirits in the United States.

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